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There's something almost sacred about making salami in Italy.
Tradition - artisan salami making and the rediscovery of historic breeds - is progress at its best.

A rediscovery of historic breeds and processing passed down religiously from father to son from the first school established in Italy, the Preci school, a development in the ham-making art. This is the new Italian salami making horizon, further confirmation that biodiversity combined with certain local customs are the prime elements in Italian uniqueness. Salami and cheese are like local dialects. There are at least 300 and they can be confusing. Just think of sopressa/sorpressata which is variously a soft salami in the Veneto region, made with the pig's head in Tuscany and a fine grain, long aged salami in the south. Even the largest producers make local variants of their produce. And if the introduction of white Northern European pigs was seen by the sector as a chance to increase quantities without giving up the search for quality, today's salami artisans are returning to the breeding of native black pig speciality breeds - Mora Romagnola, Cinta Senese, Nero dei Nebrodi and Grigio del Casentino - just as they have done with sheep and cows for cheese. And of course there are also salami made with sheep, geese and cows in Italy. Natural and climatic elements, lastly, are the essential pre-conditions for certain top quality products which are the direct result of the air, humidity levels and pasture.